12/19/2023 0 Comments 220v quick disk connect boxI appreciate that this is alot of the first-time setup stuff, but don’t worry. This includes physically installing the disks, powering on, installing the system firmware, creating an account, created and completed your RAID storage pool, created at least one volume and created at least 1 shared folder. Important – This guide is based on the assumption that you have set up your NAS system storage already. The majority of the steps can also be applied to other operating systems, such as Linux and Mac, but this guide should show you how to set up a direct-attached storage style of connection with your NAS, whether you want to access the NAS software GUI or see the NAS Drive storage within the file management tools of your operating system natively (Windows File Explorer, Finder, etc) In today’s article, I am going to show you how to set up a direct, one cable connection between your NAS drive and your Windows PC. ![]() Add to this that many users are now taking advantage of connectivity such as thunderbolt and 10Gbe, and you find that it is genuinely desirable to be able to access your NAS via a much more direct method. You want to enjoy the benefits of the software, maybe have the option of remote access and even still share are all the lovely data inside your NAS with multiple users, but you want it via direct connectivity with the NAS over a single cable, not having to play around with routers and switches. Having secure yet unlimited access to the data locked in your NAS from anywhere in the world is all well and good, but often all you want is the quick and easy connectivity more often found in traditional DAS and USB style storage. Let’s all be honest for a second about one of the biggest advantages and disadvantages of network-attached storage, namely the speed, external security and method with which you can access your data. It looks like this will be the least expensive option.Connecting DIRECTLY With Your NAS without Using a Switch or Router The disconnect needs to be at least 5’ away from the tub and within 50’ + within site to meet code. Updated answer: suggested scrapping the 6’ wip from the disconnect and just running a new one. Just to make sure your box is at least 49 cu inch, if the ground in the cable is #10 you can subtract 2.5 cu inch because #10 is 2.5 not 5. Clamps we only count 1 for the largest again. Up to 4 grounds we only count the largest. The wire nuts and splices are included in the wire size. Where you run into problems is on the box fill #6 wire is 5 cu inc each and the number 12 is 2.25 cu inch plus clamps at 5 cu inch, you only have 4 grounds so the largest possibly a #10 in the 6 awg cable but I calculate it at #6 for worst case.Ĥ9 cu inch total since the box is outside it needs to be a 3R type box (you said you had the box I just ran the numbers because DIY almost always get hit here.) I would just use wire nuts with the 120v wiring, in both cases Big box stores and electrical stores carry the Polaris style and they would be all you need. I would suggest you get 4 Polaris style splices (97102) a Morris brand I got for ~5-6$ and it can handle 14-4 awg easier install and really easier to use in this case. With a terminal block style you need the rail that holds the terminals and the end blocks and clamps. ![]() ![]() You can do it with din rail terminals a company called automation direct usually has good prices and you could get the rail the 4 terminal blocks ( knt2blu) these work 12-2 awg ~19$ for 10 terminals.
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